some liquid lip rouges which are still available today are very close in color to the antiseptic I saw on the shelf years ago. The most common forms of lip cosmetics available are liquid and cream rouges, as well as cream cosmetics specifically compounded for warm color areas. Some of these would include Kalochrome Youthful, Adult and Old Age. There are also corresponding Perma Pigments and there is a Kalon pigment named “Lip Color.” The manner in which they are used is determined by their composition. The liquid and cream rouges are both translucent coloring agents which should be lightly applied to re-introduce redness to the mucous membranes. While they vary slightly in terms of intensity, their sole purpose is to re-establish red coloring lost in death. There is no covering or concealing imperfections or blemishes when one uses these cosmetics. Additionally, liquid and cream lip rouges will not adhere to waxed areas with any degree of success. The other types of cosmetics which can be used for lips are those which contain pigments. The vehicles in various formulations of pigmented cosmetics include oil, paraffin and mineral spirits. The use of these pigments is the most common method for cosmetizing lips. Such cosmetics can both re-establish natural color, cover discolorations and adhere to wax. The color of the mucous membrane of the lip is composed of three complexion pigments: red, melanin (brown) and carotene (yellow). It follows then that any blended cosmetic used on the lips should also be composed of these three pigments and should be adjusted with the addition of one or more of these components. At one of the funeral homes where I was employed, we were the recipients of free cosmetics because one of the funeral director’s relatives was a sales representative for a large cosmetic manufacturer. The cosmetics we received did come in handy in some cases, especially mascara, eyeliner and fingernail polish. A problem occurred, however, with the lip cosmetic we were given. Apparently, the only lipstick which was available to us for free was a shade called Sweet Rose. I believe a layperson who saw this color would call it pink. While Sweet Rose did have its use, I quickly learned that it had to be blended with Light Brown Blending Kalochrome for use on most males. One key element in adjusting lip cosmetics properly for various subjects is bearing in mind that a determinant factor in complexions is melanin content. In most cases, if the lip color does not look natural, it’s because there is too little brown. When there are complaints about the lip color of the deceased, it’s most often that the lips are too red or too purple. Especially when it is not convenient to completely remove the lip cosmetic and reapply a different color, the addition of a small amount of brown cosmetic over the surface of the lips will often rectify this situation. Another point to consider is that the pigmentation of the lips is not consistent over the entire surface. Just as the rest of the complexion has variegation of color, so does the red portion of the lips. Here there are areas of greater red concentration as well as greater brown, so irregular coloration is not something to be avoided. On the contrary, lips will appear more natural if one avoids a constant color across the surface. One simple technique for creating color variegation is applying small spots of Light Brown Blending Kalochrome randomly on the lip surface and then stippling lightly. Applying the cosmetic to the lip surface is generally accomplished using a small (1/4” or less) chisel-shaped brush. Many cosmeticians use this style because it will leave a sharply defined edge of cosmetic material. However, if the mucous membrane portion of the lips is closely examined, one will see that there is no definite margin visible. The red portion of the lips merge with the surrounding integumentary and has no definite border. This is an advantage to the cosmetician, because there’s no need to recreate natural lip coloring with perfect symmetry — the lips are not naturally symmetrical. Here’s another method of applying lip cosmetic which may produce a more natural appearance: Rather than tracing the border of the lips with the brush and filling in the remainder of the lip surface with cosmetics, begin at the line of closure and apply the cosmetic toward the margins of the lip with vertical brush strokes. This will naturally diminish the amount of cosmetic at the borders of the lips and keep an indistinct margin between the mucous membranes and the integumentary. When someone views a deceased individual for the first time, they focus first on the face as a whole, then the mouth specifically. With that in mind, it makes sense for us to study this area and notice its nuances. The physiology of the mouth and lip surfaces are specific to each individual. The care we take to observe and correct changes caused by death reflects the level of pride and professionalism we have in caring for the deceased and the families who have chosen us to serve them. This article has been edited for length and clarity. It originally appeared in the Summer 2025 issue of Dodge Magazine and is being shared with permission. 12 | Directors Digest
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